sorry i'm at the new octospark.tumblr.com
Reblogged from voiceofthetunnels  5,382 notes

smalllady:

Little but the Chantry ties Orlais, Nevarra, Ferelden, Antiva, and even Rivain to a common cause. Has the Chantry truly promoted such peace? Andraste’s Chant is familiar across kingdoms, a source of many shared customs. That is the crucial point. Common ground is the start of all negotiations.

Reblogged from squid--bae  106,115 notes
The boobs you made for your cosplay. What material are they made out of ?

thenightguardsfury:

topographicocean:

deus-vulting-intensifies:

technoranma:

MATERIALS:

- Regular Craft Foam
- Masking Tape
- Pen
- scissors

1. Cut out a generic LARGE tear drop shape.
You’re going to have to make numerous DARTS in the foam to get the cup shape to cover your own boobs.

Cut one (1) slit and position the craft foam so that the ends overlap each other then temporarily tape it down using some masking tape.

Do this a couple times with more slits of various lengths until you get a rudimentary curved looking 3D foam shape.

You can mark off with a pen or pencil where you should cut out the darts, then take off all the tape and cut the pieces.

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MATERIALS:

- Rubber Cement (or contact cement)
- Hot Glue

2. After that I used rubber cement (you can find it at any stationary/craft store) to cement the darts. It’s still kind of fragile that way, so I took my hot glue gun and smeared hot glue along the seams on the INSIDE to make them hold better.

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3. Try the finished craft foam cups on and see that they cover your full breast (sides and all). Also, if the cleavage type you need is different, the shape I made is not necessary. You might make the top a bit different shape. The reason I chose to cut the fake boobs this way is because I needed a v-neck plunge, so the tops of mine are pointy.

MATERIALS:
- Yellow Upholstery Foam
- Hot Glue

4. After you have those craft foam pieces, you need to use yellow upholstery foam. This type of foam is important because I tried to use softer stuff and it collapses so easily. Get this foam (usually comes in 1/2” thickness) from stores that have an upholstery or drapery section.

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(Photo from spana298 original Japanese tutorial. Also see crunchyroll link here)

5. Stretch the foam onto the shape. DO NOT rip it or cut darts. Foam is pliable so see how Altiera spana used clips to hold it on?? You can do the same, I just used hair clips.

Once it’s stretched out a bit (give it a couple minutes), you can use glue to just glue it on. Hot glue will warp craft foam though, and hot glue stays hot for a long time on yellow foam, so be VERY careful not to burn yourself if you use hot glue!

6. Trim and shave your foam down at the EDGES so you have a nice smooth shape (not blocky).

MATERIALS:
- stretch knit fabric

7. Find a stretch knit fabric. I found a beige stretch knit in the activewear/lycra section of Fabricland. I generally prefer stretch knit to 100% synthetic spandex or lycra because it takes to hot glue really well, whereas the other stuff just seems to dry flaky.

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8. Stretch the fabric over and use some pins or clips to hold it in place (careful to not rip your foam). Hot glue the fabric edges to the inside of the cups.

Once that is done, you get to this stage:

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MATERIALS:
- Liquid Latex (flesh tone)
- Popsicle sticks
- Baby powder

9. To make the breats more realistic, you can add liquid latex (flesh tone). I used BEN NYE brand from an 8oz container. This stuff goes a long way, so you won’t need the entire 8oz (you can probably use 4oz as more than enough). I first did a test on a scrap piece of knit fabric to see how many layers I needed before I got a skin-like texture.

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I got a bag of Popsicle sticks and dipped one in the liquid latex then used the stick to smooth it onto the fabric. One layer soaked up a lot so it became very rough looking. Once it dried, I brushed on a layer of baby powder. Liquid latex needs to be brushed with powder after every coat. I added a second coat of liquid latex using the popsicle sticks. (Throw out the popsicle sticks after every use, and use lots. If latex dries on it, it won’t spread smoothly, so just use more. It gets smoother than a sponge and is much cheaper than brushes).

For the THIRD coat (I had tested on a small patch previously and figured 3 coats would look good), I did NOT use popsicle sticks. I set the boob on a paint bottle to prop it UP and AWAY from the table. I then lightly POURED liquid latex directly from the bottle onto the boob and manipulated the boob around so that the entire thing got coated this way. I let the excess DRIP off and onto the work board underneath.

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If a few air bubbles get in it that’s ok, it actually helps to add realistic look to the ‘skin’. Once it’s dry, brush with baby powder. Do both boobs this way.

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10. Trim off any dried drips of liquid latex that collected on the edges of your boobs.

11. To match perfectly your skin tone, I AIRBRUSHED my false boobs using an Airbrush and Airbrush paints. SEE THIS VIDEO OF MY PAINTING HERE.

You can probably use make-up to paint the latex as an alternative to airbrushing. There are plenty of latex painting tutorials on the web!

12. To add straps, you can simply sew some on to the excess fabric that was glued into the inside of the boob cups. Reinforce your sewing stitches with hot glue. You can add a small piece of fabric in between the breasts as well to help hold them together.

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That’s it!!

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That’s really cool. 

HOLY SHIT

Reblogged from cave-punk-blog  489,881 notes

jesliey:

homosaurus-rex:

homosaurus-rex:

It’s actually a good thing that the zombie apocalypse starts in Florida because then the zombies only have one way to go and that’s straight up into trigger happy redneck territory. I give it two weeks before monster trucks and mullets save us.

can we talk about how this is still getting notes

The funny thing is that i can not actually come up with a counter argument for this.